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Philadelphia Inquirer - 3/18/2021

Mar. 18—This week, Craig LaBan kvells about a new smoked-fish destination, Jenn Ladd explains how to run a cooking competition in a socially distant world, and I run down plenty of restaurant tips — I'm talking to you, Main Liners.

If you need food news, click here and follow me on Twitter and Instagram. Email tips, suggestions, and questions here. If someone forwarded you this newsletter and you like what you're reading, sign up here to get it free every week. — Michael Klein

The lox that ate South Philly: Craig LaBan stops at Biederman's

Craig LaBan visits the Italian Market and shares a taste (or two) of the smoked fish and other "appetizing" fare at Biederman's Specialty Foods. There's an old-time feel to the shop, opened by Lauren Biederman, a longtime lox lover. Which might make her an a-fish-ionado.

Teen culinary students battle for college scholarships

Careers through Culinary Arts Programs' annual Cooking Competition for Scholarships is a heated battle among Philly high schoolers. Colleague Jenn Ladd finds that although this year's contest was executed differently because of the pandemic, the top prize — a full ride to culinary school — remains the same.

Looking back, looking forward

A year ago, the world suddenly had been turned fearfully on its head. Everything was uncertain, including the immediate future of restaurants.

With conventional reviews off the table, critic Craig LaBan says he has been able to continue writing about restaurants and restaurant people in ways that seemed often more important than ever because the stakes were so high. From the tales of surviving COVID-19, to the struggles of laid-off servers, rebounding from vandalism, chefs stepping up to feed communities in need, innovative new formats to give diverse culinary voices a chance, and many lists of takeout hits to keep patronizing restaurants safely.

Meanwhile, I found high hopes out there among the restaurant community. Many believe that there's light at the end of the tunnel, and it's not an oncoming train.

Feel-good story of the week

We headlined this one, "A Jersey guy brought his cheesesteak truck to Philly to help another guy's mom see the pyramids." Philly schoolteacher Dustin Vitale has been making cheesesteaks to raise money for a trip to Egypt for his mother. Mike Hauke, who owns the Tony Boloney's shops in New Jersey, showed up outside his house with his food truck. Together, they reached the fund-raising goal.

Restaurant report

First, some hot news: The Bercy in Ardmore is giving way to a luxe Italian steakhouse. It's a partnership between Bercy owners Joe Monnich and Justin Weathers, and restaurateur Anthony DePaul — hence the name, DePaul's Table.

Federal Donuts is back in Center City, now in temporary quarters downstairs at 1526 Sansom St., pending a future permanent opening nearby. Its old building at 1632 Sansom will face the wrecking ball in advance of a new high-rise.

Friday, March 19 will mark the grand opening of Down North Pizza, whose mission (besides Detroit-style pizza and wings) is to employ formerly incarcerated people and to reduce recidivism.

Di Bruno Bros. is looking at Friday, March 19 to open its sprawling market in Wayne'sStrafford Shopping Center.

Snap Custom Pizza and its fried-chicken offshoot, Big Dean's Hot Chicken, are now set up inside the ShopRite market at 6901 Ridge Ave. in Roxborough for in-store pickup and delivery through the third-party services. Snap's debut will be marked by $4.99 design-your-own pizzas on Saturday, March 20 from 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

Some reopenings: Soup Kitchen Cafe (2146 E. Susquehanna Ave., Fishtown, takeout only, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. daily); The Dutch (1527 S. Fourth St., Pennsport, indoor/takeout, 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday); Fond (11th and Tasker Streets, East Passyunk, limited indoor/expanded outdoor/takeout, 5 — 10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, 5-9 p.m. Sunday, starting March 19), and Baby Blues BBQ (new location at 3432 Sansom St., University City, takeout only, noon-8 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday).

And this week brought word from Harrisburg that restrictions on bars and restaurants in all of Pennsylvania, except Philadelphia, will be loosened, effective Easter Sunday — traditionally one of the busiest dining days of the year. And just because rules are being loosened doesn't mean that patrons should expect happy hours and other discounts. My friend Michelle Curtis, a spirits pro who is now consulting, just posted on Instagram a mini-rant on the topic. It's still tough out there for workers. The conclusion: "Wear your mask & tip heavily."

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